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Hadrian’s Wall Path – A Hike Along History

I know, I know. I’ve posted about the Hadrian’s Wall Path already. Shortly after I completed it, I shared a bunch of photos (here are part 1 and part 2) and a video. What I haven’t done, however, is actually talk about it.

It’s a magnificent hike.

In this post, I’m going to share all the details of my week on the Hadrian’s Wall Path.

Stunning View of the Trail and Hadrian's Wall

Hadrian’s Wall was built by Roman Emperor Hadrian in 122 AD. The northernmost border of the Roman Empire, it used to be the most heavily fortified border of the whole empire. It was built after it became obvious that the ferocious Scottish clans couldn’t be conquered. The wall’s main purpose was protection and border control. It stretched westward for 73 miles (117 kilometers) from Segedunum on the River Tyne, present-day Newcastle-upon-Tyne, on the North Sea coast to the shore of the Solway Firth on the Irish Sea coast. Every mile there was a so-called milecastle, which controlled the movement of people and goods along and through the border.

Hiking the Hadrian’s Wall Path

The Hadrian’s Wall Path, one of England’s greatest long-distance hikes, runs along and over the original wall from Wallsend in the east to Bowness-on-Solway in the west. I hiked this fabulous 84 mile-long (135-kilometer) trail with my dad in the last week of September 2012. Walking between six and seven hours each day, it took us six days to finish.

Hiking Hadrian's Wall Path: A Misty Lookout

England wouldn’t be England without rain. And we experienced a lot of it during the first two days. We expected this and had booked accommodation in B&Bs and inns before leaving. Knowing that we could take a hot shower and have a warm meal and a pint in the evenings made getting soaking wet during the day a lot more bearable. If you plan to do this in summer, when the weather is drier and warmer, camping is strongly recommended. Several farms along the trail have campsites and basic facilities.

Sunny Skies on the Hadrian's Wall Path

We got absolutely drenched during those first couple of days, but finally, on the third day, the skies cleared up. The scenery, too, got more interesting. While on the first day the trail led through the city center of Newcastle and its suburbs, on the second day we already found ourselves in the countryside. The walk from Heddon-on-the-Wall to Chollerford took us through fairly flat fields and along the Military Road.

Cows in a Field

More hiking: Hiking the Müllerthal Trail, Luxembourg


 On day three the Hadrian’s Wall Path led from Chollerford to the Twice Brewed Inn in Hexham, and ran along and sometimes even over the actual wall. The landscapes, especially those in Northumberland National Park, were absolutely spectacular. They consisted of hills, rocks and stones, marshes, bogs and meadows,… everything that makes the English countryside so attractive. Sometimes, after climbing another steep hill and looking out over the fields, we felt like we were in the middle of nowhere. That’s the effect that a few days of moving at your own pace have on your mind; in a car we could have covered the same distance in less than an hour.

Picturesque Farmstead

We hiked for six days, backpacks strapped on our backs, and thoroughly enjoyed every moment of it – even the unrelenting downpours. Sore legs, painful knees, blisters, broken shoelaces or rain, we didn’t care. The views, landscapes and tremendous history of the region more than compensated those nuisances.

Hadrian's Wall Path Waymarker

The third and fourth day, from Chollerford to Walton, were the most physically challenging, yet the most enjoyable. Nice weather, magnificent views, solitude and adventure; four keywords to sum up those days and the main ingredients of a memorable travel experience.

Breathtaking View along the Wall

The Hadrian’s Wall Path flattened out again after Walton, for we were now approaching the west coast. The last day, from Carlisle to the Solway Firth, took us along wide and slow-flowing rivers and through the marshes of the estuary.

Solway Firth

More hiking: 15 Long-Distance Hikes of Less than One Month


Day Overview

Day 1: Wallsend – Heddon-on-the-Wall (13 miles / 21 kilometers)

Day 2: Heddon-on-the-Wall – Chollerford (15 miles / 24 kilometers)

Day 3: Chollerford – Hexham (15 miles / 24 kilometers)

Day 4: Hexham – Brampton (12 miles / 19 kilometers)

Day 5: Brampton – Carlisle (12 miles / 19 kilometers)

Day 6: Carlisle – Bowness-on-Solway (17 miles / 28 kilometers)

Because we had booked our accommodation beforehand and didn’t camp, we could carry everything easily in two backpacks. Food was available in abundance along the way; there were stores, pubs and restaurants.

Some Facts

  • Distance: 84 miles (135 kilometers)
  • Time: 6 days
  • Signage: The Hadrian’s Wall Path is marked with arrows and a white acorn, the official symbol of the English National Trails.
  • Highlights: Segedunum, Birdoswald Roman Fort, Housesteads Roman Fort, the Roman Army Museum, Chesters Roman Fort and Hadrian’s Wall itself, obviously.

Useful Tips

  • If you want the certainty of a bed at night, it is suggested to book ahead.
  • Always carry sufficient water and food.
  • Make sure to have some cash on you, as not all places accept debit and credit cards.
  • Bring a rain jacket – it rains in England.
  • Definitely break in your walking boots beforehand.
  • Research the availability of public transportation along the way.
  • Take lots of photos – it’s beautiful in England.

More Information

National Trails

Hadrian’s Wall Path Pictures

Roseann

Saturday 8th of April 2017

Hi Bram - I thoroughly enjoyed your pictures and commentary. My friend and I (both retired teachers in our 60's) will be hiking part of the trail for three days in September 2017 . We will mostly be hiking around the Gilsland and National Park areas (I think). Last year I hiked part of the SW Coastal Path in England and found hiking poles quite helpful since we hiked many of the cliffs along the ocean. My question is - do you think we will need hiking poles on the Hadrian Wall path? I like to travel light but taking poles means checked luggage since the TSA does not allow them to go into carry-on luggage. We will both have sturdy hiking boots. Thanks for your suggestions.

Bram Reusen

Tuesday 11th of April 2017

Hi Roseann. I personally didn't use hiking poles and felt that you don't really need them. There are a few pretty steep (but short) sections, though, where poles are definitely useful. If you're a strong hiker, however, you'll be just fine with just a pair of good boots.

Valeriia

Thursday 24th of March 2016

Thanks for such a beautiful post! We moved to England not so long time ago, and Hadrian's wall is among the most urgent things to see. Now we are encouraged even more :)

Bram Reusen

Thursday 24th of March 2016

That's so great to hear, Valeriia! I also recommend exploring more of Northumberland National Parks, it's one of the remotest corners in all of England.

Jennifer Miller

Tuesday 8th of March 2016

Thanks and beautiful pictures! I'm planning to do the same trip but solo. From what I've been reading it seems safe for solo travelers. Any thoughts on that?

Bram Reusen

Tuesday 8th of March 2016

Hi Jennifer, this trip is absolutely fine to do solo. It's only a six-day hike and much of the walk runs through peaceful fields, past towns and over hills. It's an incredibly quiet region; solo travel is a great way to immerse yourself in these wonderful landscapes.

Karen Warren

Saturday 28th of February 2015

Hi, I'm doing this walk in June, so it was great to read your experience!

Bram Reusen

Saturday 28th of February 2015

Great that you're also going to do this, Karen! It's a fabulous hike. You'll love it. :-)

Stephen Leigh

Thursday 19th of February 2015

Hi Bram,

Me and a few friends are thinking of doing the Hadrian's wall trail this summer. So if you have any advice and a list of Hotels/B&Bs you stayed at, I'd really appreciate it.

Kind Regards,

Steve

Bram Reusen

Wednesday 25th of February 2015

Steve, for the places I stayed at, I would like to suggest taking a look at this post of mine on Hiptraveler: http://www.hiptraveler.com/#!/Itinerary/Hadrian's-Wall-Path/54526977e4b079b2ac42fefc.

Carmina

Wednesday 25th of February 2015

Hey! I would also be interested! It will be my firts hike in Uk (I am from Romania) without my Geography teacher, who was an expert in this field, so we won't camp. Any adive would be greatly appreciated!